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Ashley: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Waistband Curve​

Controls how curved the waistband is, if it’s not determined automatically

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 60°
  • Minimum: 5°
  • Maximum: 180°

If the Automatic Waistband Angle option isn’t active, this option determines how far the waistband will be curved.

Fit​

Seat ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 15%

Controls the amount of ease at your seat/bum.

Waist ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your waist

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at your waist.

Even if you draft lower pants, this will still influence the ease at the top of your pants (the closure).

Automatic Waistband Angle​

How to determine the waistband angle

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

This option determines whether the angle of the waistband will be determined automatically, taking a best guess at how much it needs to be curved to hug your body at the top of the trousers, or whether you can set an angle manually.

Style​

Belt loops​

Controls the amount of belt loops

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: undefined
  • Minimum: 6
  • Maximum: 12

Controls how many beltloops we’ll generate.

Crotch drop​

Lowers the crotch for a more relaxed fit

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 15%

Controls by how much the crotch is lowered.

Lowering the crotch makes for a more casual fit. A significantly lowered crotched can also be a style choice.

Angle Inseam​

How far to rotate the inseam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 3°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 45°

This option controls how much extra width is added to the pants at the inseam. The hem is rotated by this amount, with the center of the rotation at the fork of the pants.

Length at Inseam​

Controls the total length of the shorts at the inseam, relative to the total inseam measurement

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 100%

This determines the length of the shorts. 100% makes them the same length as an unmodified Titan. 0% would give them an inseam length of 0. 40-50% is knee-length.

Angle Outseam​

How far to rotate the outseam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 9°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 45°

This option controls how much extra width is added to the pants at the outseam. The corner of the hem is rotated by this amount, with the center of the rotation on the outseam at the level of your seat.

Shorten the Outseam​

Cuts the outseam shorter to create an angle at the hem

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option cuts the pants shorter at the outseam, to create an angle at the hem. If this is above 0, the bottom of the legs won’t be perfectly horizontal when worn, they’ll have a subtle V shape.

Use waistband angle for​

Apply the waistband angle to the front, back or both

  • Type: List
  • Default: frontOnly
  • options:
    • frontOnly
    • backOnly
    • both

Determines if the Waistband angle setting is applied to the back part, the front part or both.

Note that applying the setting to only one of the parts can create an angle at the sideseam.

Waistband angle​

Change the angle of the waistband when viewed from the side

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 12°
  • Minimum: -20°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of the waistband when the garment is viewed from the side.

Increasing this option will raise the back of the pants and lower the waistband in the front. This is ideal for those with a curvy body who want the waistband to sit below the belly in the front, but above the butt in the back.

If you’re setting the waistband angle to a larger value, it’s also a good idea to increase the waist height to make sure you’ve got enough coverage in the front.

Waist height​

Controls the height of the waist, 100% = waist height, 0% = hip height

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: -5%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the height of the waist, where:

  • 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
  • 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line

Waistband width​

The width of the waistband

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 4%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the width of the waistband.

Backpocket​

Back Pocket Depth​

The depth (vertical) of the back pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 20%
  • Maximum: 60%

This option controls the depth (vertical) of the back pockets.

Back Pocket Hem Allowance​

How much extra fabric to fold over at the top of the back pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 6%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 15%

This option controls how much extra fabric is folded over at the top of the back pocket.

Back Pocket Width​

The width of the back pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 35%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 40%

This option controls the width (horizontal) of the back pockets.

Pocket​

Pocket opening width​

How wide to draft the opening of the front pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 33%
  • Maximum: 75%

This option controls the width of the front pocket opening - how far the curve reaches towards the center front of the shorts.

Pocket Depth​

How far below the waist the pockets should end. Measure from your waist to where your fingertips fall on your side.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 40%
  • Maximum: 80%

Controls the position of the bottom of the pocket, as a percentage of your waist-to-knee measurement. If you measure on the side of your body, from your waist down to where your fingertips fall on your leg, the units measurement here should match that number as closely as possible.

Pocket Opening Depth​

How deep the pocket openings should be. They can’t be shallower than the necessary front opening.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 7%
  • Minimum: 3%
  • Maximum: 25%

This controls the depth of the pocket openings. They can’t be shallower than the necessary front opening depth, or you won’t be able to get your seat into the trousers.

Yoke​

Yoke Angle​

How far the yoke should be curved to create butt shaping

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 8°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 15°

This option determines how much of a curve is added to the yoke piece, which creates some extra shaping at the top of the seat.

Yoke Depth​

How deep the yoke should be at the center back

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option determines how far down the yoke pieces are drafted at the center back of the pants.

Advanced​

Cross seam angle​

Controls the angle of the cross seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 12°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of cross seam curve.

  • 0% makes the cross seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the cross seam at that angle away from the hem.

Cross seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the cross seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 65%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 85%

Controls the curvature of the cross seam curve.

tip

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Start of the cross seam curve​

Controls how far into the cross seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the start of the cross seam curve.

tip

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Crotch seam angle​

Controls the angle of the crotch seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 25°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 35°

Controls the angle of the crotch seam curve.

  • 0% makes the crotch seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the crotch seam at 180 - the angle.

Crotch seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Start of the crotch seam curve​

Controls how far into the crotch seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 95%

Controls where the crotch seam starts to curve, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Grainline position​

Controls the horizontal position of the leg relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the position of the grainline.

You can use this to shift the grainline inward or outward if that works better for your body.

Hem allowance​

How much space to leave at the bottoms of the legs for the hem, as a percentage of the seam allowance elsewhere

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 600%
  • Minimum: 100%
  • Maximum: 800%

This option controls how much extra seam allowance is drafted at the bottom of the legs to provide space for the double-fold hem.

Leg balance​

Controls the ratio between front and back panel of the leg

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 57.5%
  • Minimum: 52.5%
  • Maximum: 62.5%

Controls the proportion between the front and back part of the legs.

The back of the trouser legs are always wider than the front. This controls by how much.

tip

Increasing this will make the front leg panel narrower. This makes the wearer look more skinny.

This trick is often used in womenswear jeans (now you know why you can’t find womenswear jeans with functional front pockets).

Waist balance​

Controls the horizontal position of the waist relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 90%

Controls the distribution of fabric between front and back parts at the waist.

It is somewhat in vogue to draft a larger back panel these days. Doing so shifts the side seam forward which gives the illusion of being slimmer.

The side effect of shifting the side seam forward is that it’s easy to get into the pockets that are located on the side seam.

This option allows you to control this balance.

Yoke Recovery Shift​

Tweak this if the corners at the top of the yoke are too far from right angles

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 2%

This option adds a small horizontal shift to the top of the yoke pieces. If the angles at the side seams look strange, tweak this to even them out.

Fly​

Fly curve​

Controls the curvature of the fly J-seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 72%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 100%

This controls the curvature of the fly’s J-seam.

Fly length​

Controls the length of the fly

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the length of the fly.

Fly width​

Controls how far the J-seam of offset from the fly edge

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 20%

Controls how far the fly’s J-seam is offset from the fly edge.