Skip to main content

Sunny Split Side Skirt: Sewing Instructions

Notes and tips​

Waistband Length​

Traditionally, each panel of this skirt was individually tied to the body around the waist. This pattern has retained this convention. With some adjustments to waist ease, this could be worn by tying the panels to each other. If a fabric waistband is used, extra length may be required to achieve a satisfactory knot depending on the width of the waistband. Modern designs of this skirt often use the rear waistband as a visual element be using an accent fabric and enough length to create a pleasant bow.

Fit​

The side seam opening determines both how much of the hips are potentially revealed and how much room there is to get the garment over the wearer’s seat. A shorter opening limits exposure but reduces the space available to don the garment.

Construction​

warning

This does not go into a full explanation on how to create all the individual details that make up a basic skirt block and modifications to be made from there (get the excellent ‘Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear, 6th Edition’ by Winifred Aldrich). These instructions assume that you know how to sew a dart, insert an invisible zipper, etc. If not, there are numerous excellent articles available on the web, both in written form, and on video. If you do get stuck, you can always reach out to other FreeSewers in our discord.

Step 1: Prepare the Pleats​

For each panel separately:

  • Layout, fold, pin, and iron pleats in place. (Don’t forget to leave room for seams.)
  • optional: unpin and top stich along each pleat edge individually or as they are folded.
  • optional: baste across pleats to secure during construction

Step 2: Sew the side seams​

  • With , sew up both the side seams to the notches.
  • If hemming the open edges, fold and pin the hems in place. Otherwise, fold seam allowances under.
  • Top stitch along side openings to secure the top of the seam and hems/allowances.

Step 3: Bind the pleats​

  • With right side down, fold the waist band in half lengthwise and iron a crease into it. Do this for the separate waistband as well if using a separate waistband piece.
  • Open, fold the sides into the middle (so the right side is out), crease, and iron.
  • If using a fabric waistband, folding the corners into the center line gives a nice finished edge to the ends.
  • If using a ribbon waistband, fold the seam end allowances in and iron in place.
  • Secure the binding/waistband to the pleats like bias tape.
    • Open the binding and, with good sides together, align one edge of the binding to the top edge of the pleats.
    • Sew along crease just above it so this seam will be hidden.
    • Refold binding around the top of the pleats
    • Sew along bottom folds.
    • Sew up edge of panel to secure the binding.
tip

If the pleat binding is separate from the waistband, the fabric used for binding may be cut on the bias. Do not cut a fabric waistband on the bias.

Step 4: The waistband​

  • If using a fabric waistband, sew along open edges to finish.
  • If using separate waistband (ribbon or fabric), attach waistband to each panel on the inside of the skirt by sewing along the top and bottom of the waistband and along the edge of the panel..

Step 5: The hem​

  • If desired, face the hem.
  • Press under the hem allowances of the skirt.
  • Secure the hem in place with your preferred method. For instance you can sew from the outside or from the inside. This comes down to how you want the finished product to look.
  • Repeat for side openings if desired.
tip

If the seam allowances are big enough you can sew the hems as narrow hems. This is especially useful if your fabric is prone to fraying.

Step 6: Enjoy!​

  • Now all that’s left to do is to enjoy the new skirt!