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Percy puffy pants: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Front Pleat Preview Length​

How far to draw the pleat preview lines. This doesn’t affect shaping at all.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 8%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 20%

This determines how long a line is drawn to show you the front pleat placement and width. It doesn’t affect the final garment at all.

Front Pleat Position​

Where to generate a pleat on the front panel.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 90%

This controls where to place the front pleat on the front panel of the pants - closer to the pocket or closer to the center front

Front Pleat Width​

How big of a pleat to generate on the front panel.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 6.4%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

This determines how wide the front pleat is, or how much fabric is folded over to form it.

Hem Ratio​

How far the bottom hem should be flared, relative to the same height on a basic Titan. This is very approximate. The flare won’t go past 90 degrees total.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 250%
  • Minimum: 100%
  • Maximum: 400%

This controls how far to slash and spread the hem, relative to the original Titan hem length at the chosen length. 250% puff at 100% length is a smaller spread angle than 250% puff at 12% length, but the same amount of material will gather into the cuff and the final puff will look about the same size.

Slash Iterations​

How many cuts to make to spread the body panels. Turn this up if it looks jagged.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: undefined
  • Minimum: 1
  • Maximum: 24

Controls how many cuts to make while slashing and spreading the body panels. Higher numbers will produce a smoother result, but anywhere above 3 or 4 will be close enough.

Fit​

Knee ease​

Controls the amount of ease at the knee

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 6%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 25%

Controls the amount of ease at your knees, which also determines the width of the trouser legs.

Seat ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 7%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 12%

Controls the amount of ease at your seat/bum.

Waist ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your waist

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at your waist.

Even if you draft lower pants, this will still influence the ease at the top of your pants (the closure).

Style​

Crotch drop​

Lowers the crotch for a more relaxed fit

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 15%

Controls by how much the crotch is lowered.

Lowering the crotch makes for a more casual fit. A significantly lowered crotched can also be a style choice.

Cuff Width​

How wide to make the leg cuffs.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 15%

Controls the width of the cuff piece. This will add to the inseam length to contribute to the total length of the pants.

Fit the knee​

Fits the legs from based on the knee circumference, rather than seat circumference

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

Controls the width of the legs.

Length at Inseam​

How long the inseam of the shorts should be. 100% = floor length, 40-50% = knee length.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 100%

This determines the length of the shorts. 100% makes them the same length as an unmodified Titan. 0% would give them an inseam length of 0. 40-50% is knee-length.

Pocket Depth​

How far below the waist the pockets should end. Measure from your waist to where your fingertips fall on your side.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 20%
  • Maximum: 80%

Controls the position of the bottom of the pocket, as a percentage of your waist-to-knee measurement. If you measure on the side of your body, from your waist down to where your fingertips fall on your leg, the units measurement here should match that number as closely as possible.

Use waistband angle for​

Apply the waistband angle to the front, back or both

  • Type: List
  • Default: both
  • options:
    • both
    • backOnly
    • frontOnly

Determines if the Waistband angle setting is applied to the back part, the front part or both.

Note that applying the setting to only one of the parts can create an angle at the sideseam.

Waistband angle​

Change the angle of the waistband when viewed from the side

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 0°
  • Minimum: -20°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of the waistband when the garment is viewed from the side.

Increasing this option will raise the back of the pants and lower the waistband in the front. This is ideal for those with a curvy body who want the waistband to sit below the belly in the front, but above the butt in the back.

If you’re setting the waistband angle to a larger value, it’s also a good idea to increase the waist height to make sure you’ve got enough coverage in the front.

Waist height​

Controls the height of the waist, 100% = waist height, 0% = hip height

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 75%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the height of the waist, where:

  • 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
  • 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line

Panel​

Front Panel Width​

What proportion of the front of the pants should be taken up by the front panel.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 33%
  • Maximum: 75%

Pocket Opening Depth​

How deep the pocket openings should be. They can’t be shallower than the necessary front opening.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 11%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 25%

This controls the depth of the pocket openings. They can’t be shallower than the necessary front opening depth, or you won’t be able to get your seat into the trousers.

Waistband width​

The width of the waistband

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

Controls the width of the waistband.

Pleat​

Front Pleat​

Whether to generate a pleat on the front panel.

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Determines whether to draft a pleat on the front panel or not. The pleat width propagates all the way down to the bottom hem.

Spread​

Spread​

Whether to slash and spread the body panels.

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Controls whether or not to slash and spread the body panels.

Advanced​

Cross seam angle​

Controls the angle of the cross seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 12°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of cross seam curve.

  • 0% makes the cross seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the cross seam at that angle away from the hem.

Cross seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the cross seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 65%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 85%

Controls the curvature of the cross seam curve.

tip

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Start of the cross seam curve​

Controls how far into the cross seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the start of the cross seam curve.

tip

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Crotch seam angle​

Controls the angle of the crotch seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 25°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 35°

Controls the angle of the crotch seam curve.

  • 0% makes the crotch seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the crotch seam at 180 - the angle.

Crotch seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Start of the crotch seam curve​

Controls how far into the crotch seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 95%

Controls where the crotch seam starts to curve, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Grainline position​

Controls the horizontal position of the leg relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the position of the grainline.

You can use this to shift the grainline inward or outward if that works better for your body.

Leg balance​

Controls the ratio between front and back panel of the leg

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 57.5%
  • Minimum: 52.5%
  • Maximum: 62.5%

Controls the proportion between the front and back part of the legs.

The back of the trouser legs are always wider than the front. This controls by how much.

tip

Increasing this will make the front leg panel narrower. This makes the wearer look more skinny.

This trick is often used in womenswear jeans (now you know why you can’t find womenswear jeans with functional front pockets).

Waist balance​

Controls the horizontal position of the waist relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 90%

Controls the distribution of fabric between front and back parts at the waist.

It is somewhat in vogue to draft a larger back panel these days. Doing so shifts the side seam forward which gives the illusion of being slimmer.

The side effect of shifting the side seam forward is that it’s easy to get into the pockets that are located on the side seam.

This option allows you to control this balance.