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Jaeger jacket: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Draft for high bust​

Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

Armhole depth factor (legacy)​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 70%

Armhole depth factor

This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.

Armhole depth​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: -10%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it’s legacy version armhole depth factor will.

Collar​

Collar height​

Height of the collar

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 9%
  • Minimum: 7%
  • Maximum: 10%

Collar height

This is the collar height at the back of the neck and can never be less than twice the roll line collar height.

Collar notch angle​

Angle of the collar notch

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 45°
  • Minimum: 30°
  • Maximum: 60°

Collar notch angle

Angle of the collar notch.

Collar notch depth​

Depth of the collar notch

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 50%

Collar notch depth

Depth of the collar notch.

Collar notch return​

How much the collar returns from the notch, in comparison to the lapel

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 100%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 100%

Collar notch return

Controls the length of the upper notch side. 100% = same as notch depth.

Collar roll​

Controls the amount of roll in the collar; how much the topcollar is higher than the undercollar.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of roll in the collar; how much the topcollar is higher than the undercollar.

Collar spread​

The collar spread controls how the collar drapes over the shoulders

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 13°
  • Minimum: 5°
  • Maximum: 35°

The collar spread controls how the collar drapes over the shoulders

Roll-line collar height​

How much the roll-line hugs the neck

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 6%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 9%

Roll line collar height

The amount by which the roll line hugs the neck.

Fit​

Biceps ease​

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

The amount of ease at your upper arm.

Center back dart​

Dart at the center back of your neck to accommodate a rounded back

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 1.5%

Center back dart

The reduction at the center back from shoulders to neck, which accommodates for a curved upper back.

Chest ease​

The amount of ease at your chest.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: -4%
  • Maximum: 35%

Chest ease

The amount of ease at your chest.

Collar ease​

The amount of ease around your neck

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck.

Cuff ease​

The amount of ease at your wrist.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 20%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 200%

Cuff ease

The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist.

Hips ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your hips

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 12%
  • Minimum: 8%
  • Maximum: 20%

Hips ease

The amount of ease at your hips.

Length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 19%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 25%

Length bonus

The amount to lengthen the body of your jacket.

Shoulder ease​

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -2%
  • Maximum: 6%

Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.

This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

Sleeve bend​

Controls the bend of the sleeve at the elbow.

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 10°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 20°

Sleeve bend

The bend at the elbow of your sleeve.

Sleeve length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -20%
  • Maximum: 15%

Sleeve length bonus

The amount to extend the sleeve beyond the length of the sleeve in the base block.

This is not supposed to be zero

Setting this to zero will make the sleeve length the same as the base length of the Bent block, which is certainly too short for a coat.

Please take note of the default value and use that as a basis to lengthen or shorten the sleeve.

Waist ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your waist

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 14%
  • Minimum: 8%
  • Maximum: 25%

Waist ease

The amount of ease at your waist.

Pockets​

Chest pocket angle​

The angle under which the chest pocket is placed

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 2.5°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 7°

Chest pocket angle

The angle under which the chest pocket is placed.

Chest pocket depth​

The depth of the chest pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 110%
  • Minimum: 70%
  • Maximum: 150%

Controls the depth of the chest pocket.

Chest pocket placement​

The location of the chest pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 52%
  • Minimum: 40%
  • Maximum: 60%

Chest pocket placement

Location of the chest pocket as a proportion a quarter of your chest circumference. Higher numbers move it more to the side.

Chest pocket welt size​

The size of the chest pocket welt

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 17.5%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 25%

Chest pocket welt size

The height of the chest pocket welt.

Chest pocket width​

The width of the chest pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 37%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 45%

Chest pocket width

The width of the chest pocket, as a factor of your chest circumference.

Front pocket depth​

The depth of the front pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 110%
  • Minimum: 80%
  • Maximum: 130%

Front pocket depth

The depth of the front pockets, as a factor of the space between your waist and hem.

Front pocket placement​

Location of the front pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 75%
  • Minimum: 65%
  • Maximum: 85%

Front pocket placement

Location of the front pocket as a proportion a quarter of your chest circumference. Higher numbers move it more to the side.

Front pocket radius​

The radius by which the front pocket is rounded

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

The radius by which the front pocket is rounded.

  • Increase this option to curve the bottom of the front pocket
  • Decrease this option to straighten out the bottom of the front pocket

Front pocket width​

The width of the front pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 68%
  • Minimum: 55%
  • Maximum: 75%

Front pocket width

The front of the chest pocket, as a factor of your chest circumference.

Inner pocket depth​

The depth of the inner pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 110%
  • Minimum: 75%
  • Maximum: 140%

How deep you would like the inner pocket to be.

  • Increase this option to make a deeper inner pocket
  • Decrease this option to make a shallower inner pocket

Inner pocket placement​

The location of the inner pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 52%
  • Minimum: 42%
  • Maximum: 62%

The location of the inner pocket.

  • Increase this option to shift the inner pocket towards the side seam
  • Decrease this option to shift the inner pocket towards the centre front

Inner pocket welt height​

The height of the inner pocket welt

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3.5%
  • Minimum: 2.5%
  • Maximum: 5%

Controls the width of the inner pocket welts.

  • Increase this option to increase the width of the inner pocket welts
  • Decrease this option to decrease the width of the inner pocket welts

Inner pocket width​

The width of the inner pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 65%

The width of the inner pocket.

Pocket fold-over​

The amount by which the main fabric is folder over into the pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 35%

Controls the amount of main fabric that’s folded over at the top of the path pockets.

sleeves​

Sleeve vent length​

Length of the sleeve vent

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 35%
  • Minimum: 25%
  • Maximum: 55%

Controls the length of the sleeve vent.

Sleeve vent width​

Width of the sleeve vent

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 18%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 26%

Controls the width of the sleeve vent.

Style​

Back vent​

The amount of back vents

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: undefined
  • Minimum: 0
  • Maximum: 2

Back vent

How do you like your back vents?

  • Two back vents (shown on the left)
  • One central back vent (shown in the middle)
  • No back vents (shown on the right)

Back vent length​

The length of the back vent(s)

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 35%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 100%

Back vent length

Controls the length of the back vent. Lower numbers result in a shorter vent.

Button length​

The distance over which buttons are spread

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 30%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the length over which the buttons are spaced. In other words, the length from the top to bottom buttons.

Number of buttons​

Controls the amount of buttons

  • Type: List
  • Default: 2
  • options:
    • 1
    • 2
    • 3

Controls the amount of buttons.

Center front hem drop​

The amount by which the hem is lowered towards the center front

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 4%

Center front hem drop

How much do you want the front of your jacket to be longer/lower than the back?

Front cutaway angle​

The angle under which the front is cut away towards the hem

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 2.5°
  • Minimum: 1°
  • Maximum: 4°

Front cutaway angle

The angle by which the front opens up below the lower button.

Front cutaway end​

Increasing this will make the front cutaway stay closer to the center front

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 40%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 40%

Increasing this will make the front cutaway stay closer to the center front

Front cutaway start​

The location at which the front starts opening up towards the hem

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 30%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 70%

Front cutaway start

How far below the lower button does the front start to open.

Hem radius​

The amount by which the hem is rounded

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 100%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the amount by which the hem is rounded at the front bottom.

Lapel reduction​

How much the tip of the lapels turns inwards

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

How much the tip of the lapels turns inwards.

It is common to have the edge of the lapels not be entirely straight, but rather turn inwards a bit towards the top of the lapels. This option controls by how much it does that.

  • Increase this option to shift the lapel tip inward
  • Decrease this option to shift the lapel tip outward

Lapel start​

Location where the center front goes over into the lapels

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 35%

Lapel start

Location of the lapel break point (where the front opening starts). Lower values are closer to the waistline, higher values closer to the chestline.

Advanced​

Across back factor​

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 98%
  • Minimum: 93%
  • Maximum: 100%

Across back factor

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Back neck cutout​

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 8%

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Chest shaping​

Amount of shaping to accommodate for the chest curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 30%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 100%

Chest shaping

The vertical amount to slash & spread the upper front panel to shape the chest, as a factor of your chest circumference.

Front armhole extra cutout​

How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0.2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 0.5%

Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.

Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

Front dart placement​

Location of the front darts

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 60%

Front dart placement

Location of the front dart as a proportion of your chest circumference. Higher numbers move it more to the side.

Front overlap​

How far the fabric extends beyond the closing buttons

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1.5%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 2%

How far the fabric extends beyond the button closure.

Legacy armhole depth​

Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Jaeger extends.

The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.

The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.

If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Jaeger will follow..

Shoulder slope reduction​

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 80%

Shoulder slope reduction

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

Side/Front placement​

The location of the side/front boundary

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 80%
  • Maximum: 90%

Side-front placement

Location of the front/side boundary as a proportion of your chest circumference. Higher numbers make a wider side panel.

Sleevecap ease​

The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Sleevecap ease

The ease on the sleevecap.

Sleevecap height​

Controls the height of the sleevecap.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 40%
  • Maximum: 60%

This factor controls the height of the sleevecap.