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Charlie chinos: Design Options

Fit​

Knee ease​

Controls the amount of ease at the knee

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 30%

Controls the amount of ease at your knees, which also determines the width of the trouser legs.

Seat ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at your seat/bum.

Waist ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your waist

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 5%

Controls the amount of ease at your waist.

Even if you draft lower pants, this will still influence the ease at the top of your pants (the closure).

Waistband Curve​

Controls how curved the waistband is.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 35%

Controls how curved the waistband is.

Increasing this will give a curvier waistband, making it smaller at the top edge of the waistband.

Pockets​

Backpockets​

Back pocket depth​

Controls the depth of the back pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 40%
  • Maximum: 80%

Controls the depth of the back pocket bag.

Back pocket facing​

Controls whether or not to include facing on the back pockets

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: true

Controls whether or not to include facing on the back pockets

Back pocket horizontal placement​

Controls the horizontal placement of the back pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 48%
  • Maximum: 62%

Controls the horizontal placement of the back pockets.

In other words, more towards the outseam, and this wider apart. Or more towards the center back and thus closer together.

Back pocket vertical placement​

Controls the vertical placement of the back pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 24%
  • Minimum: 18%
  • Maximum: 30%

Controls the vertical placement of the back pockets.

Either closer to the waistband, or higher. Or further from the waistband, or lower.

Back pocket width​

Controls the width of the back pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the width of the back pockets.

Frontpockets​

Front pocket depth​

Controls the depth of the front pocket bag

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 100%
  • Minimum: 85%
  • Maximum: 110%

Controls the depth of the front pocket bag.

Front pocket facing​

Controls how far the pocket facing extends into the pocket bag

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 25%
  • Maximum: 65%

Controls the boundary between the front pocket facing and pocket bag.

Increase this to use more facing, which means you’ll have to look deeper into the pocket to start seeing the pocket bag material.

Front pocket slant bend​

Controls the radius by which we round the pocket slant into the outseam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 50%

Controls the radius by which we round the pocket slant into the outseam.

Front pocket slant depth​

Controls the depth of the (front) pocket slant

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 70%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the depth of the front pocket slant. In other words, it determines how wide the pocket opening is.

Front pocket slant round​

Controls how far from the end of the slant we start rounding into the outseam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 30%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 50%

Controls how far from the end of the slant we start rounding into the outseam.

Front pocket slant width​

Controls the width of the (front) pocket slant

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 35%

Controls the width by which the front pocket slant cuts into the front panel.

Increasing this will give a more slanted pocket.

Front pocket width​

Controls the width of the front pocket bag

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 65%

Controls the width of the front pocket bag. In other words, how far the pocket bag extends towards the center front of the trousers.

Style​

Crotch drop​

Lowers the crotch for a more relaxed fit

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 15%

Controls by how much the crotch is lowered.

Lowering the crotch makes for a more casual fit. A significantly lowered crotched can also be a style choice.

Length bonus​

Controls the length of the trousers

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: -20%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls the length of the entire trousers, which essentially means the length of the legs.

tip

Setting this to zero will make the trousers the same length as the waist to floor measurement.

This does not mean that the trousers will hit the floor, since due to the curves of the body and the way the fabric drapes, the trousers will need to be longer than this to actually hit the floor.

Use waistband angle for​

Apply the waistband angle to the front, back or both

  • Type: List
  • Default: both
  • options:
    • both
    • backOnly
    • frontOnly

Determines if the Waistband angle setting is applied to the back part, the front part or both.

Note that applying the setting to only one of the parts can create an angle at the sideseam.

Waistband angle​

Change the angle of the waistband when viewed from the side

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 0°
  • Minimum: -20°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of the waistband when the garment is viewed from the side.

Increasing this option will raise the back of the pants and lower the waistband in the front. This is ideal for those with a curvy body who want the waistband to sit below the belly in the front, but above the butt in the back.

If you’re setting the waistband angle to a larger value, it’s also a good idea to increase the waist height to make sure you’ve got enough coverage in the front.

Waist height​

Controls the height of the waist, 100% = waist height, 0% = hip height

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: -4%
  • Minimum: -15%
  • Maximum: 40%

Controls the height of the waist, where:

  • 100% : The waist of the trousers sits at the waist line
  • 0% : The waist of the trousers sits at the hip line

Waistband width​

The width of the waistband

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 6%

Controls the width of the waistband.

Advanced​

Belt loops​

Controls the amount of belt loops

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: undefined
  • Minimum: 6
  • Maximum: 12

Controls how many beltloops we’ll generate.

Cross seam angle​

Controls the angle of the cross seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 12°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 20°

Controls the angle of cross seam curve.

  • 0% makes the cross seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the cross seam at that angle away from the hem.

Cross seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the cross seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 65%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 85%

Controls the curvature of the cross seam curve.

tip

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Start of the cross seam curve​

Controls how far into the cross seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 85%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the start of the cross seam curve.

tip

This curve has an influence on the amount of fabric at your bum.

People with a flatter bum will get a better fit by increasing this, as the curve will start later, and this there will be less fabric pooling at the bum.

People with a round bum might want to lower this to create a little more (horizontal) room for their behind.

Crotch seam angle​

Controls the angle of the crotch seam

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 25°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 35°

Controls the angle of the crotch seam curve.

  • 0% makes the crotch seam draft parallel to the hem.
  • Increasing this option will draft the crotch seam at 180 - the angle.

Crotch seam bend​

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the curvature of the crotch seam, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Start of the crotch seam curve​

Controls how far into the crotch seam we start to curve

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 80%
  • Minimum: 60%
  • Maximum: 95%

Controls where the crotch seam starts to curve, which influences the fit at your crotch.

Grainline position​

Controls the horizontal position of the leg relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the position of the grainline.

You can use this to shift the grainline inward or outward if that works better for your body.

Leg balance​

Controls the ratio between front and back panel of the leg

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 57.5%
  • Minimum: 52.5%
  • Maximum: 62.5%

Controls the proportion between the front and back part of the legs.

The back of the trouser legs are always wider than the front. This controls by how much.

tip

Increasing this will make the front leg panel narrower. This makes the wearer look more skinny.

This trick is often used in womenswear jeans (now you know why you can’t find womenswear jeans with functional front pockets).

Waist balance​

Controls the horizontal position of the waist relative to the seat

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 90%

Controls the distribution of fabric between front and back parts at the waist.

It is somewhat in vogue to draft a larger back panel these days. Doing so shifts the side seam forward which gives the illusion of being slimmer.

The side effect of shifting the side seam forward is that it’s easy to get into the pockets that are located on the side seam.

This option allows you to control this balance.

Fly​

Fly curve​

Controls the curvature of the fly J-seam

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 72%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 100%

This controls the curvature of the fly’s J-seam.

Fly length​

Controls the length of the fly

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the length of the fly.

Fly width​

Controls how far the J-seam of offset from the fly edge

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 20%

Controls how far the fly’s J-seam is offset from the fly edge.