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Carlton coat: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Armhole depth​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: -10%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead it’s legacy version armhole depth factor will.

Collar​

Collar flare​

Controls the flare of the collar by altering the fall length (between the neck and the tips) of the collar.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 20%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 40%

Controls the flare of the collar by altering the fall length (between the neck and the points) of the collar.

  • Increase this option to increase the fall length.
  • Decrease this option to decrease the fall length.

Collar height​

Height of the collar

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 9.6%
  • Minimum: 8%
  • Maximum: 11%

Collar height

Controls the height of the collar.

Collar spread​

Controls how close the collar lies to the neck.

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 4°
  • Minimum: 2°
  • Maximum: 6°

Controls the distance between the points of the collar.

  • Increase this option to spread the collar out and towards the shoulder.
  • Decrease this option to bring the collar in towards the body.

Fit​

Across back factor​

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 97%
  • Minimum: 93%
  • Maximum: 100%

Across back factor

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Armhole depth factor (legacy)​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 65%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 70%

Armhole depth factor

This controls the depth of the armhole, which in turn influences the sleevecap width.

Biceps ease​

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 20%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

Biceps ease

The amount of ease at your upper arm.

Chest ease​

The amount of ease at your chest.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 20%

Chest ease

The amount of ease at your chest.

Cuff ease​

The amount of ease at your wrist.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 100%

Cuff ease

The amount of ease at your cuff/wrist.

Draft for high bust​

Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

Seat ease​

Amount of ease around your bum

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 14%
  • Minimum: 8%
  • Maximum: 25%

Seat ease

The amount of ease at your seat.

Shoulder ease​

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -2%
  • Maximum: 6%

Shoulder ease

The amount of ease at your shoulders. This is an option specific to coats/overwear to allow room for garments worn under the coat.

Sleeve bend​

The angle of the sleeve at the elbow.

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 10°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 20°

Sleeve bend

The angle of the sleeve at the elbow.

Sleeve length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 7%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 20%

Sleevelength bonus

The amount to extend the sleeve beyond the length of the sleeve in the base block.

note
This is not supposed to be zero​

Setting this to zero will make the sleeve length the same as the base length of the Bent block, which is certainly too short for a coat. Please take note of the default value and use that as a basis to lengthen or shorten the sleeve.

Waist ease​

Controls the amount of ease at your waist.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 14%
  • Minimum: 8%
  • Maximum: 25%

Waist ease

The amount of ease at your waist.

Pockets​

Chest pocket angle​

Controls the slant of the chest pocket.

  • Type: Degrees
  • Default: 4°
  • Minimum: 0°
  • Maximum: 6°

Controls the slant of the chest pocket.

Chest pocket height​

Height of the chest pocket

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 60%
  • Minimum: 40%
  • Maximum: 80%

Controls the height/size of the chest pocket.

Chest pocket placement​

Controls the location of the chest pocket.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 30%
  • Maximum: 65%

Controls the location of the chest pocket.

Chest pocket width​

Controls the width of the chest pocket.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 25%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 50%

Controls the width of the chest pocket.

Inner pocket depth​

Controls the depth of the inner pocket.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 110%
  • Minimum: 75%
  • Maximum: 140%

Controls the depth of the inner pocket.

Inner pocket placement​

Controls the location of the inner pocket.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 53%
  • Minimum: 42%
  • Maximum: 62%

Controls the location of the inner pocket.

Inner pocket welt height​

Controls the height of the inner pocket welts.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 3.5%
  • Minimum: 2.5%
  • Maximum: 5%

Controls the size of the welts on the inner pocket.

Inner pocket width​

Controls the width of the inner pocket.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 45%
  • Maximum: 65%

Controls the width of the inner pocket.

Pocket flap radius​

The amount by which the pocket flap is rounded

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

Pocket flap radius

Controls the radius with which the pocket flaps are rounded at the bottom.

Pocket height​

Controls the height of the front pockets

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 40%

Controls the height/depth of the pockets.

Horizontal pocket placement​

The (horizontal) location of the pockets

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 11%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 20%

Controls the location of the pockets horizontally (more left or right).

Vertical pocket placement​

The (vertical) location of the pockets

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 6%
  • Minimum: 5%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls the location of the pockets vertically (higher or lower).

Pocket radius​

The amount by which the pocket is rounded

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 20%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

Pocket radius

Controls the radius with which the pockets are rounded at the bottom.

Pocket width​

Controls the width of the front pockets

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 95%
  • Minimum: 70%
  • Maximum: 120%

Controls the width of the pockets.

Style​

Belt width​

Width of the belt

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 20%

Controls the width of the belt at the back.

Horizontal button spacing​

Horizontal spacing of the buttons, also determines the front closure overlap

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 43.5%
  • Minimum: 15%
  • Maximum: 60%

Controls how far the double rows of front buttons are set apart.

Cuff length​

Controls the length (height if you wish) of the cuffs.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 20%

Controls the length (height if you wish) of the cuffs.

Length​

Total length

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 69%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 100%

Length

Controls the overall length of the coat.

Shoulder seam shift: armhole side​

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -100%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.

  • Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
  • Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side

Shoulder seam shift: collar side​

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -100%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.

  • Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
  • Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side

Advanced​

Back neck cutout​

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 8%

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Front armhole extra cutout​

How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0.5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 1.5%

Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.

Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

Front overlap​

Controls how much the right and left front of the garment overlap at the center front.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1.5%
  • Minimum: 1%
  • Maximum: 2%

Controls how much the right and left front of the garment overlap at the center front.

Lapel reduction​

Controls how much the lapel tip goes inwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Controls how much the lapel tip goes inwards.

It is common to have the edge of the lapels not be entirely straight, but rather turn inwards a bit towards the top of the lapels. This option controls by how much it does that.

Legacy armhole depth​

Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Carlton extends.

The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.

The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.

If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Carlton will follow.

Shoulder slope reduction​

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 12%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 80%

Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.

Sleevecap ease​

Controls the amount of sleevecap ease.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 1%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Sleevecap ease

How much sleevecap ease do you want?

What’s the point?​

The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder.

More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you would expect from a coat. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flatter.

The lighter your fabric, the less sleevecap ease you want.

Sleevecap height​

Controls the height of the sleevecap.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 45%
  • Minimum: 40%
  • Maximum: 60%

This factor controls the height of the sleevecap.