Opal Overalls: Design Options

Conditional Options

Carpenter pocket extra height

Controls how tall to make the second carpenter pocket.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls how tall to make the second carpenter pocket.

Back pocket corner height

Controls how tall the bottom-left and bottom-right corners of the back pocket are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how tall the bottom-left and bottom-right corners of the back pocket are.

Back pocket corner width

Controls how wide the bottom-left and bottom-right corners of the back pocket are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the bottom-left and bottom-right corners of the back pocket are.

Back pocket height

Controls how tall the back pockets are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 80%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 120%

Controls how tall the back pockets are.

Back pocket horizontal position

Controls where the back pockets are horizontally.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls where the back pockets are horizontally.

Back pocket vertical position

Controls where the back pockets are vertically.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 100%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 160%

Controls where the back pockets are vertically.

Back pocket width

Controls how wide the back pockets are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the back pockets are.

Bib pocket on fold

Toggles whether to draft the bib pocket pattern on-the-fold, or as a full pattern piece.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Toggles whether to draft the bib pocket pattern on-the-fold, or as a full pattern piece.

Bib pocket feature curve

The exact effect of this option varies based on the selected bib pocket style.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

The exact effect of this option varies based on the selected bib pocket style:

• Pentagon: This option has no effect.
• Hexagon: This option has no effect.
• Curved bottom: This option controls how strongly curved the curved sections on the bottom of the pocket extends.
• Rectangle: This option has no effect.

Bib pocket feature height

The exact effect of this option varies based on the selected bib pocket style.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 20%

The exact effect of this option varies based on the selected bib pocket style:

• Pentagon: This option controls how far up the bottom-right and bottom-left corners are.
• Hexagon: This option controls how high the diagonal (bottom-right and bottom-left) edges of the pocket are.
• Curved bottom: This option controls how high the curved sections on the bottom of the pocket extend.
• Rectangle: This option has no effect.

Bib pocket feature width

The exact effect of this option varies based on the selected bib pocket style.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 80%

The exact effect of this option varies based on the selected bib pocket style:

• Pentagon: This option controls how wide the bib pocket is at the bottom-right and bottom-left corners.
• Hexagon: This option controls how wide bottom edge of the pocket is.
• Curved bottom: This option controls how wide the flat section on the bottom edge of the pocket is.
• Rectangle: This option has no effect.

Bib pocket height

Controls how tall the bib pocket is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls how tall the bib pocket is.

Bib pocket style

Choose among the available types/styles of bib pockets.

• Type: List
• Default: pentagon
• options:
  • pentagon
  • hexagon
  • curvedBottom
  • rectangle

Choose among the available types/styles for the bib pocket:

• Pentagon: The bib pocket is in the shape of a pentagon. The feature options control the bottom-right and bottom-left points of the pentagon. This is the designer’s preferred style, as it follows the trapezoidal shape of the front bib.
• Hexagon: The bib pocket is in the shape of a hexagon, similar to the style of the back pockets.
• Curved bottom: This is like ‘hexagon,’ but the two diagonal edges are curves instead of straight lines.
• Rectangle: The bib pocket is in the shape of a rectangle.

Bib pocket vertical position

Controls where the bib pocket is located on the bib vertically.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls where the bib pocket is located on the bib vertically.

Bib pocket width

Controls how wide the top of the bib pocket is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 40%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls how wide the top of the bib pocket is. For the rectangular bib pocket style, this also controls how wide the bottom of the bib pocket is.

Carpenter pocket anchor width

Controls how wide the section of the carpenter pocket anchored under the back pocket is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls how wide the section of the carpenter pocket anchored under the back pocket is.

tip

This option also controls how slanted the opening of the carpenter pocket is.

Carpenter pocket anchor horizontal position

Controls where the carpenter pocket is anchored under the back pocket horizontally.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls how tall the carpenter pocket is.

Carpenter pocket anchor vertical position

Controls where the carpenter pocket is anchored under the back pocket vertically.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls where the carpenter pocket is anchored under the back pocket vertically.

Carpenter pocket extra

Toggles whether to include a second pocket over the bottom portion of the carpenter pocket.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Toggles whether to include a second pocket over the bottom portion of the carpenter pocket.

tip

Setting this option to true will enable the following option:

• Carpenter pocket extra height

Carpenter pocket height

Controls how tall the carpenter pocket is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 100%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 150%

Controls how tall the carpenter pocket is.

Carpenter pocket opening height

Controls how tall the opening to the carpenter pocket is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 40%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how tall the opening to the carpenter pocket is.

tip

The width of the opening to the carpenter pocket is adjusted using the carpenter pocket anchor width option.

Slash pocket height

Controls how deep the slash pocket bags are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 90%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 200%

Controls how deep the slash pocket bags are.

Slash pocket curve

Controls the shape of the openings the slash pockets. 0 is a straight opening, while larger values are more deeply curved.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls the shape of the openings the slash pockets. 0 is a straight opening, while larger values are more deeply curved.

Slash pocket opening height

Controls how high the openings of the slash pockets are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how tall the openings of the slash pockets are.

Slash pocket opening width

Controls how wide the openings of the slash pockets are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 30%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 60%

Controls how wide the openings of the slash pockets are.

Slash pocket shield overlap

Controls how far the pocket shield extends past the opening of the slash pockets.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 30%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 60%

Controls how far the pocket shield extends past the opening of the slash pockets. Larger values will make it less likely for the pocket lining to be visible from the outside, but will add more bulk to the pockets.

Slash pocket width

Controls how wide the slash pocket bags are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 70%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the slash pocket bags are.

Construction

Bib placket layers

Sets how many layers of fabric are used for the placket at the top of the front bib.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: undefined
• Minimum: 0
• Maximum: 8

Sets how many layers of fabric are used for the placket at the top of the front bib. Using more layers will produce a stronger area to install the bib hardware into, but too many layers will be hard to sew and will add bulk.

Bib placket width

Controls how wide to make the placket at the top of the front bib.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 30%

Controls how wide to make the placket at the top of the front bib.

Hem allowance

Sets how wide the hems around the front and back bibs and the straps are, as a percent of the seam allowance.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 150%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 400%

Sets how wide the hems are around the front bib, back bib, and straps are. A larger hem will make the bibs and straps a little stiffer and stronger, but large values can make the curves harder to sew.

tip

This option does not change the hem around the legs. Use the Leg hem allowance options for that.

Leg hem allowance

Sets how wide the hems around the legs are, as a percent of the seam allowance.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 150%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 1600%

Sets how wide the hems are around the legs. If you want to cuff the legs as well as hem them, add additional allowance here for the cuffs.

Waistband layers

Sets how many layers the front waistband is folded into.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: undefined
• Minimum: 0
• Maximum: 8

Sets how many layers the front waistband is folded into.

Waistband width

Controls how wide the front waistband is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 20%

Controls how wide the front (and only) waistband is. Make sure that the waistband is at least a little larger than the seam allowance. Seam allowance + 6mm should be the minimum.

Fit

Waist drop

Places extra fabric in the center of the waist, to help the garment better wrap around the belly.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 15%

Places extra fabric in the center of the waist, to help the garment better wrap around the belly. This extra fabric helps to avoid having the folds of fabric that often form at the base of the bib.

Crotch drop

Controls vertical ease at the crotch fork.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls vertical ease at the crotch fork.

Crotch ease

Controls horizontal ease at the crotch fork.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls horizontal ease at the crotch fork.

Crotch fork balance

Controls how far back/forward the crotch fork is placed.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: -20%
• Maximum: 40%

Controls how far back/forward the crotch fork is placed.

Leg balance

Positive values move more of the fabric to the back piece, negative values to the front piece.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 30%

Positive values move more of the fabric to the back piece, negative values to the front piece.

Leg hem ease

Controls how much ease there is at the bottom of the legs.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 200%

Controls how much ease there is at the bottom of the legs.

tip

This option does not affect the width of any hem. It only affects the length around the circumference of the leg, with the greatest effect felt at the hem, and tapering off towards the thighs.

Seat balance

Controls how much of the seat is part of the front piece and how much is part of the back piece.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -15%
• Maximum: 15%

Controls the position of the side seam at the seat. Positive values will cause the front piece to be wider, while negative values will cause the back piece to be wider.

tip

-The side seam in this design is always straight. Instead, all adjustments are made by moving the center seam.

• For most people, this option will be set less positive/more negative than the waist balance.

Seat ease

Controls how wide the garment will be around the seat.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the garment will be at seat height.

tip

This option controls the circumference/overall ease of the garment at this height. If you want to move fabric to/from the seat or the crotch, you should adjust the seat balance option instead.

Waist balance

Controls how much of the waist is part of the front piece and how much is part of the back piece.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -15%
• Maximum: 15%

Controls the position of the side seam at the waist. Positive values will cause the front piece to be wider, while negative values will cause the back piece to be wider.

Note: The side seam in this design is always straight. Instead, all adjustments are made by moving the center seam.

tip

For most people, this option will be set more positive/less negative than the seat balance.

Waist ease

Controls how wide the garment will be around the waist.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the garment will be around the waist.

This overalls design does not feature any side closure. As such, there must be enough ease in the waist for the garment to slide over the widest part of the hips. As such, waist ease should usually be set to fairly large positive value. If the waist ease is too narrow, you may make a garment that cannot be put on or taken off.

Style

Back bib base angle

Controls the angle at which the back bib rises from side seam.

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 25°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 85°

Controls the angle at which the back bib rises from side seam. Larger values will provide a fuller back bib.

Back bib base curve

Controls how strongly curved the back bib is as it rises from the side seam.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 40%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how strongly curved the back bib is as it rises from the side seam. Smaller values will provide a fuller back bib.

Back bib hexagon height

Controls how tall the hexagon formed by the straps crossing is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 40%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 60%

Controls how tall the hexagon formed by the straps crossing is. This is mostly a stylistic option, though higher values will produce a taller hexagonal crossing-over region, which will somewhat reduce the length of the straps and slightly reduce the coverage of the back bib, but should be a little stronger.

Back bib hexagon side height

Controls how tall the left and right sides of the hexagon formed by the straps crossing are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 12%
• Minimum: 5%
• Maximum: 40%

Controls how tall the left and right sides of the hexagon formed by the straps crossing are. This is mostly a style choice, but too small a value will make the garment construction harder, and may weaken the garment.

Back bib hexagon vertical position

Controls how far up the hexagon formed by the straps crossing is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 90%

Controls how far up the hexagon formed by the straps crossing is. Higher values will produce a taller back bib, and correspondingly shorter straps. This will produce more coverage, but shorter straps will reduce their adjustment range.

Back bib hexagon width

Controls how wide the hexagon formed by the straps crossing is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls how wide the hexagon formed by the straps crossing is. Larger values will make the entire back bib wider, and also wider the base of the straps, adding quite a bit more coverage.

Bib height

Controls how tall the front bib is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 70%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 90%

Controls how tall the front bib is.

Bib width

Controls how wide the top of the front bib is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the front bib is.

Hammer loop

Toggles whether to include a hammer loop under the left back pocket.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Toggles whether to include a hammer loop under the left back pocket.

Hammer loop corner horizontal position

Controls where the hammer loop curves towards. Used for calculating its length.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -50%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how the hammer loop curves. Used for calculating its length.

Hammer loop corner vertical position

Controls where the hammer loop curves towards. Used for calculating its length.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how the hammer loop curves. Used for calculating its length.

Hammer loop curve

Controls how deeply the hammer loop is curved. Used for calculating its length.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 100%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how the hammer loop curves. Used for calculating its length.

Hammer loop first fold

Controls how wide the first fold of the hammer loop is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 90%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the first fold of the hammer loop is. This is used for calculating how wide the fabric needs to be cut for the hammer loop.

Hammer loop outseam

Controls how far down the outseam the hammer loop is inserted. Used for calculating its length.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls how far down the outseam the hammer loop is inserted. Used for calculating its length.

Hammer loop second fold

Controls how wide the second fold of the hammer loop is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 200%

Controls how wide the second fold of the hammer loop is. This is used for calculating how wide the fabric needs to be cut for the hammer loop.

Hammer loop width

How wide to make the hammer loop.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 20%

How wide to make the hammer loop.

Leg length

Controls how long the legs of the garment will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 30%
• Minimum: 10%
• Maximum: 120%

Controls how long the legs of the garment will be. A value of 100% should produce legs that reach the floor. Much smaller values (20%-60%) are used to draft a pattern for shortalls.

Note: The exact length needed will probably need tweaking, based on how the garment is intended to be worn. I recommend that you take a measuring tape, place one end where you want the top of the outseam to rest, measure from there to where you want the bottom of the legs to reach, and adjust this option so that the outseam of the drafted pattern is the right length.

tip

Too long is better than too short. Excess leg length can be hemmed, cuffed, or cut away, but it’s hard to add more length to overalls that are too short.

Outseam height

Controls how far up past the waist the outseam extends, and thus how far up the front and back bibs separate.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 20%

Controls how far up past the waist the outseam extends, and thus how far up the front and back bibs separate.

warning

This option has a major effect on the overall style of your design. Larger values will give overalls with more side coverage and are more common in mens’ or kids’ overalls, while smaller values will expose more of the sides and are more common in feminine overalls. Larger values should produce a stronger (more tear-resistant) garment.

Back pocket

Toggles whether to include back pockets in the pattern.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Toggles whether to include back pockets in the pattern.

Note: Setting this option to ‘true’ will enable the following options:

• Back pocket horizontal position
• Back pocket vertical position
• Back pocket width
• Back pocket height
• Back pocket corner width
• Back pocket corner height

Bib pocket

Toggles whether to include a bib pocket in the pattern.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Toggles whether to include a bib pocket in the pattern.

tip

Setting this option to ‘true’ will enable the following options:

• Bib pocket on fold
• Bib pocket vertical position
• Bib pocket style
• Bib pocket width
• Bib pocket height
• Bib pocket feature width
• Bib pocket feature height
• Bib pocket curve

Carpenter pocket

Toggles whether to include a carpenter pocket under the right back pocket.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Toggles whether to include a carpenter pocket under the right back pocket.

Note: Setting this option to ‘true’ will enable the following options:

• Carpenter pocket height
• Carpenter pocket anchor horizontal position
• Carpenter pocket anchor vertical position
• Carpenter pocket anchor width
• Carpenter pocket opening height
• Carpenter pocket extra
• Carpenter pocket extra height (If carpenter pocket extra is also true)

Slash pocket

Toggles whether or not to include slash (front) pockets in the pattern.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Toggles whether or not to include slash (front) pockets in the pattern.

Setting this option to ‘true’ will enable the following options:

• Slash pocket opening width
• Slash pocket opening height
• Slash pocket curve
• Slash pocket width
• Slash pocket height
• Slash pocket shield overlap

Strap length

Controls how long the straps are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 160%
• Minimum: 100%
• Maximum: 200%

Controls how long the straps are. This option should generally be substantially larger than 100%, to allow the strap to be passed through the hardware. 160% is generally a good value to allow for a wide range of adjustments using the hardware.

tip

If not using hardware and permanently sewing the straps to the front bib, or if using non-adjustable buttons, a value of slightly over 100% should be used.

Strap position

Controls where the straps are positioned with respect to the hexagon.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 0%

Controls where the straps are positioned with respect to the hexagon. This option can only go negative, and smaller (more negative) values set the straps a little farther away from the centerline, which can affect how they fit around the shoulders.

tip

If you don’t have a good reason to change this, it is recommended to leave it at the default (0%).

Strap taper curve

Controls how strongly curved the taper of the straps is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 80%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how strongly curved the taper of the straps is.

Strap taper position

Controls how long the tapered portion of the straps is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how long the tapered portion of the straps is.

Setting this value too low can make for unnatural-looking straps, but the larger this value is set, the smaller the range over which the straps can be adjusted, since the slider can’t fit over the tapered portion of the straps. It is recommended to set this to as small a value as will still produce nice-looking straps.

Strap width

Controls how wide the straps are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 4%
• Minimum: 2%
• Maximum: 10%

Controls how wide the straps are.

tip

It is recommended to select your hardware first, and make sure that the strap width that you choose is compatible with your sliders and buckles.

Waist position

Controls where the waistband is on the front of the overalls. 0 is at the natural waist and -100 is at the seat.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -50%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls where the waistband is on the front of the overalls. 0 is at the natural waist and -100 is at the seat. Positive values will place the waistband above the natural waist. Values near 0 are recommended for traditional overalls.

Advanced

Cross seam curve angle

Controls at what angle the cross seam reaches the crotch fork.

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 12°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 45°

Controls at what angle the cross seam reaches the crotch fork.

Cross seam curve bend

Controls how deeply scooped the cross seam is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 65%
• Minimum: 45%
• Maximum: 85%

Controls how deeply scooped the cross seam is. Smaller values will give more room in the seat.

Cross seam curve start

Controls where the cross seam starts curving on the back.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 85%
• Minimum: 60%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls where the cross seam starts curving on the back. Smaller values will give more room in the seat.

Crotch seam curve angle

Controls at what angle the crotch seam reaches the crotch fork.

• Type: Degrees
• Default: 25°
• Minimum: 0°
• Maximum: 45°

Controls at what angle the crotch seam reaches the crotch fork.

Crotch seam curve bend

Controls how deeply scooped the crotch seam is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 80%
• Minimum: 45%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how deeply scooped the crotch seam is. Smaller values will give more room in the crotch.

Crotch seam curve start

Controls where the crotch seam starts curving on the front.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 80%
• Minimum: 60%
• Maximum: 95%

Controls where the crotch seam starts curving on the front. Smaller values will give more room in the crotch.

Thigh shape

Controls how elongated the thighs of the garment are. Higher values are used for deeper but narrower thighs.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 122%
• Minimum: 116%
• Maximum: 135%

Controls how elongated the thighs of the garment are. Higher values are used for deeper but narrower thighs.

This controls the transition between the trunk (one big tube) and the legs (two smaller tubes). The two legs will always require more fabric than the trunk, but the shape of the thighs affects how much more fabric is needed. This option is used to account for this.