Onyx one-piece: Design Options

Conditional Options

Hood hem

Sets the hem allowance along the front of the hood, as a multiple of the seam allowance.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 200%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 800%

Controls how wide the hem going around the front of the hood will be, as a multiple of the seam allowance. A hem of 2.5cm/1” is a common value.

tip

This option is only available if the neck style option is set to hood.

Neck guard length

How far to have the zipper guard extend past the top of the zipper.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 5%

On garments with a neckband, this option adds extra length to the zipper guard to allow it to wrap around the neckband to protect the neck.

tip

This option is only available if the neck style option is set to neckband.

Neckband length

Controls how long the neckband is, as a percentage of the circumference of the neckline.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 80%
• Minimum: 50%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how long to make the neckband, as a percentage of the circumference of the neckline.

Too large a value will make for a loose neckband that doesn’t hold its shape properly, while too small a value will cause the fabric around the neckband to be gathered.

Materials that stretch more easily should use smaller values. 80-85% is a reasonable value when using swim fabric, and 75% is a reasonable value for rib knit.

tip

This option is only available if the neck style option is set to neckband.

Neckband width

Controls how wide the finished neckband will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide to make the finished neckband. For swimwear, 4cm / 1.5in (the default) is a common value. If using rib knit, 5-7.5cm (2-3in) is generally used.

tip

This option is only available if the neck style option is set to neckband.

Leg Ribbing Length

Controls how long the ribbing around the leg is, as a percentage of the leg circumference.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 75%
• Minimum: 50%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how long the ribbing around the leg is, as a percentage of the leg circumference. Setting this to a smaller value will make the cuff tighter and hold onto the ankle better, while a larger value will give more room.

tip

This option is only available if the leg ribbing option is set to ribbing.

Leg Ribbing Width

Controls how wide the ribbing around the leg is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the ribbing around the leg is.

tip

This option is only available if the leg ribbing option is set to ribbing.

Leg hem

Sets the hem allowance of the hem along the bottom of the legs, as a multiple of the seam allowance.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 200%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 800%

Controls how wide the hem going around the legs will be, as a multiple of the seam allowance. A hem of 2.5cm/1” is a common value.

tip

This option is only available if the Leg ribbing option is set to hem.

Hood depth

Controls how much room will be in the hood around the back of the head.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 100%
• Minimum: 70%
• Maximum: 180%

Controls how much room will be in the hood around the back of the head.

tip

This option is only available if the ‘neck style’ option is set to hood.

Hood height

Controls how tall the hood will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 100%
• Minimum: 70%
• Maximum: 140%

Controls how tall the hood will be.

tip

This option is only available if the neck style option is set to hood.

Hood front bonus

Controls how far forward the hood comes over the forehead.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -8%
• Maximum: 10%

Controls how far forward the hood comes over the forehead.

Hood Front dip

Controls far down the front of the hood drops over the forehead.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 8%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 20%

Controls far down the front of the hood drops over the forehead. Larger values work best with lightweight/flexible fabrics.

Hood front piece size

Controls if a front piece will be used, and how wide the front piece of the hood will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how long the sleeves of your garment will be.

• 15-30% will make short sleeves.
• 75% will make three-quarter sleeves.
• 100% will make long sleeves, stopping at the wrist.
• 115% will make sleeves covering the knuckles, and is appropriate if using thumb holes.

Skirt hem

Sets the hem allowance of the hem along the bottom of the skirt, as a multiple of the seam allowance.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 200%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 800%

Sets the hem allowance of the hem along the bottom of the skirt, as a multiple of the seam allowance.

Skirt waistband

Sets the width of the waistband along the top of the skirt, as a multiple of the seam allowance.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 200%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 800%

Sets the width of the waistband along the top of the skirt, as a multiple of the seam allowance..

The waistband is a single fold hem that is topstitched into the main garment around the waist. The fold serves to hide and finish the top edge. It only needs to be wide enough to allow the topstitching to secure the skirt in place.

Skirt length

Controls the length of the skirt, as a percentage of the waist to upper leg measurement.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 100%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 500%

Controls the length of the skirt, as a percentage of the waist to upper leg measurement. A length of 100% should make a skirt just long enough to reach the upper leg.

Skirt width

Controls the width of the skirt at the bottom, as a percentage of the waist measurement.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 160%
• Minimum: 100%
• Maximum: 250%

Controls the width of the skirt at the bottom, as a percentage of the waist measurement.

The top of the skirt is cut to the same width, and gathered around the waist. As such, a large value for this option will make a more heavily gathered skirt that is wide at the bottom.

Sleeve Ribbing Length

Controls how long the ribbing around the sleeve is, as a percentage of the sleeve circumference.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 75%
• Minimum: 50%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how long the ribbing around the sleeves is, as a percentage of the sleeve circumference. Setting this to a smaller value will make the cuff tighter and hold onto the arm better, while a larger value will give more room. If making sleeves with thumb holes, it is recommended to set this value a little larger or to use a hem instead to avoid squeezing the hands.

tip

This option is only available if the ‘sleeve ribbing’ option is set to ribbing.

Sleeve Ribbing Width

Controls how wide the ribbing around the sleeve is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the ribbing around the sleeve is.

tip

This option is only available if the sleeve ribbing option is set to ribbing.

Sleeve hem

Sets the hem allowance of the hem along the end of the sleeves, as a multiple of the seam allowance.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 200%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 800%

Controls how wide the hem going around each sleeve will be, as a multiple of the seam allowance. A hem of 2.5cm/1” is a common value.

tip

This option is only available if the Sleeve ribbing option is set to hem.

Construction

Back on fold

Enable this option to make the back out of a single piece, or disable to make it out of two mirrored pieces joined by a seam. It is recommended to disable this if placing a back zipper, and enable it otherwise.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Controls if the back is made of of a single piece of fabric cut on the fold, or as two mirrored pieces that are sewn together down the center.

• Pro: Saves a construction step, removes a seam, may be more comfortable.
• Con: Disadvantages: Doesn’t work with zippers, harder to fit a larger pattern piece on the fabric (may cause more fabric waste).

Zippers

If using a back zipper, do not enable this option.

Front on fold

Enable this option to make the front out of a single piece, or disable to make it out of two mirrored pieces joined by a seam. It is recommended to disable this if placing a front zipper, and enable it otherwise.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Controls if the front is made of of a single piece of fabric cut on the fold, or as two mirrored pieces that are sewn together down the center.

• Pro: Saves a construction step, removes a seam, may be more comfortable.
• Con: Doesn’t work with zippers, harder to fit a larger pattern piece on the fabric (may cause more fabric waste).

Zippers

If using a front zipper, do not enable this option.

Leg Ribbing

Choose whether to make ribbed knit cuffs for the legs or to use a hem.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Choose whether to make ribbed knit cuffs for the legs or to use a hem.

tip

Setting this option to hem will enable the leg hem option, while setting this option to ribbing will enable the leg ribbing length and leg ribbing width options.

Sleeve Ribbing

Choose whether to make ribbed knit cuffs for the sleeves or to use a hem.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Choose whether to make ribbed knit cuffs for the sleeves or to use a hem.

tip

Setting this option to hem will enable the sleeve hem option, while setting this option to ribbing will enable the sleeve ribbing length and sleeve ribbing width options.

Zipper guard width

How wide to make the zipper guard.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the zipper guard will be. It should be wide enough to fully cover the zipper, with a little extra in case it shirts or stretches while in use.

Zipper length

The length of the zipper, as a percentage of the vertical trunk. It is recommended that you match this length (shown below in cm/in) to the length of the actual zipper, measured from lower stop to upper stop.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 50%

Sets the length of the zipper, as a percentage of the vertical trunk. If you’re using a precut zipper, you should adjust this option until the value shown below (in cm/in) matches the length of your zipper, measured from the lower stop to the upper stop.

tip

This option doesn’t directly change the shape of the front or back pieces where the zipper is attached, but the zipper will be drawn onto the appropriate piece for reference, and will be used in drafting the zipper guard piece.

Zipper Position

Select where to place the zipper.

• Type: List
• Default: front
• options:
  • front
  • back
  • none

Choose whether to place the zipper on the front, the back, or to not use a zipper at all.

Front Zipper

• Easy for the wearer to reach the zipper.
• Allows for a tight neckline.
• Provides the least mobility of any option.

Back Zipper

• Allows greater mobility and stretch in the torso than a front zipper.
• Allows for a tight neckline.
• Can be hard to zip up and down by oneself.

No Zipper

• Allows maximum mobility and stretch in the torso.
• Easy to put on and take off the garment.
• Requires a very large neckline, since the neck must be able to stretch around the widest part of the hips.

tip

The zipper guard piece is only generated if a zipper is used.

Fit

Armpit ease

Gives more room in the armpit by shifting the sleeve down the body.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: -20%
• Maximum: 50%

Shifts the sleeves downward to give extra room in the armpit, measured as a percentage of the sleeve diameter. If in doubt, go with the default value.

Note: This option does not change the diameter of the sleeve. To make the sleeve larger or smaller, use the Sleeve ease option.

Note: The Raglan scoop length and Raglan scoop depth options also affect the amount of ease in the armpit.

This option also allows negative values.

Negative values will move the sleeves upwards. Use with caution, even on stretch garments, as this can easily cause binding at the armpit.

Center seam ease

Controls how long the center seam will be, and thus how low the crotch fork of the garment will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -20%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how long the center seam will be, and thus how low the crotch fork of the garment will be.

Chest ease

Controls how wide the garment will be around the chest.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -40%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how wide the garment will be at your chest.

Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your chest circumference measurement when drafting the garment.

This option allows negative values

You should use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Unisuits and unitards typically have negative ease, while other garments typically have positive ease.

Crotch gusset width

Controls how wide the crotch gusset will be. Adjust so that the front and back pieces look smooth and clean around the crotch fork and upper legs. Deeper thighs and abdomens require a larger value, while wider ones require a smaller value.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 100%
• Minimum: 75%
• Maximum: 133%

Adjusts how wide the crotch gusset will be. The crotch gusset is a rectangular strip of fabric running up one leg, across the crotch fork, and down the other leg. It adds room in the crotch, creates a stronger outfit by avoiding the 4-way seam normally found at the crotch fork, and greatly reduces the need for scoops around the crotch fork.

Bodies that are wider than they are deep do not need as wide a gusset, while those with very deep thighs may need a wider gusset.

The width of the crotch gusset will affect how the garment is shaped around the hips, crotch, and upper legs. You may have to adjust the upper leg east, seat ease, and leg taper position along with this option to get a proper fit.

Hips ease

Controls how wide the garment will be at the bottom hem. This option is only used if the straight sides option is disabled.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -40%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how wide the garment will be at your hips.

Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your hips circumference measurement when drafting the garment.

This option also allows negative values.

You should use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Unisuits and unitards typically have negative ease, while other garments typically have positive ease.

Leg hem ease

Controls how wide the bottom of the legs will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -40%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how wide the bottom of the legs of the garment will be. The base value is interpolated between the circumference of the upper legs and the ankles, based on how long the legs on the garment are, and this option is then applied to this.

Neck position

Controls where the neck hole is placed on the garment.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 40%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 80%

Controls where the neck hole is placed on the garment. A value of 0% has the center of the neck hole exactly where the four raglan seams would intersect, with the front and back parts being identical and the sleeve being symmetrical. A positive value shifts the neck towards the front of the garment.

Neck ease

Controls how large the neck hole is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 150%

Controls how large the neck hole is. Keep in mind that most garments have neck holes that are substantially larger than the wearer’s neck, and that the neckband will further constrict the neck. 0% ease will make a very small neck hole that hugs the neck snugly. +50% will still make what’s generally considered a tight neckband appropriate for swimwear. For garments with a loose fit, or that do not use a zipper, even larger values are recommended.

This option allows negative values

Be careful setting a negative ease for the neck, even on compression garments, as it can get very uncomfortable. Perhaps it could be useful for a garment trying to seal off the body, such as a wetsuit?

Outseam ease

Controls how far down the garment the waist, hips, seat, and upper leg points on the outseam will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -20%
• Maximum: 5%

Controls how far down the garment the waist, hips, seat, and upper leg points on the outseam will be.

Seat ease

Controls how wide the seat is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -40%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how wide the garment will be at your seat.

Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your seat circumference measurement when drafting the garment.

This option also allows negative values.

You should use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Unisuits and unitards typically have negative ease, while other garments typically have positive ease.

Sleeve ease

Affects how wide the sleeve is at the armhole on all garments, and has some affect on the width at the hem of short sleeved garments.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 50%

Affects how wide the sleeve is at the armhole on all garments.

For sleeves that are less than 100% length, this option also affects how wide the sleeve is at the hem, with shorter sleeves being affected by this option to a greater degree, and longer sleeves being more affected by the wrist ease option. In most cases, this value should be set larger than chest ease, as the shoulders and arms are smaller and the same percentage of ease will translate to a smaller absolute ease.

For compression clothes, shoulders and armpits also need more mobility than the chest, so very negative eases should generally be avoided for this option.

This option allows negative values

You should use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Unisuits and unitards typically have negative ease, while other garments typically have positive ease.

Upper leg ease

Controls how wide the garment will be around the upper legs.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -40%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how wide the garment will be at your upper leg.

Whatever value you provide here will simply be added to your upper leg circumference measurement when drafting the garment.

This option also allows negative values.

You should use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Unisuits and unitards typically have negative ease, while other garments typically have positive ease.

Waist ease

Controls how wide the garment will be around the chest.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -40%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how wide the garment will be around the waist.

Wrist ease

Affects how wide the end of the sleeve is on sleeves that extend past the biceps. The effect is greater on longer sleeves.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 50%

Affects how wide the end of the sleeve is on some garments. There is no effect for sleeves ending at the biceps or above. For longer sleeves, the wrist measurement and this wrist ease option have a progressively larger effect, reaching full effect for long sleeved garments (sleeve length of 100% or greater).

This option allows negative values

You should use negative ease if you are using a stretch material that you want to fit tightly. Unisuits and unitards typically have negative ease, while other garments typically have positive ease.

Style

Leg length

Controls how long the legs of the garment will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 120%

Controls how long the legs on your garment will be.

• 15-30% will make short legs.
• 40-50% will be around knee length.
• 91% will cover the ankles (appropriate for long-legged swimwear).
• 100% will reach the floor (appropriate for one-piece pajamas using ribbed cuffs).

Neck style

Select whether you want to add a hood to the garment, or finish the neck with a neckband.

• Type: List
• Default: neckband
• options:
  • neckband
  • hood

Choose whether to add a hood to your garment, or to finish it with a neckband.

tip

Setting this option to hood will enable the following options:

• Hood height
• Hood depth
• Hood front piece size
• Hood front bonus
• Hood dip
• Hood hem

Setting this option to neckband will enable the following options:

• Neckband length
• Neckband width

Skirt

Select whether or not you want to add a simple gathered skirt around the waist of the garment.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Select whether or not you want to add a simple gathered skirt around the waist of the garment.

This is a basic skirt intended to not add much bulk to the garment while offering a degree of modesty and flair. It’s designed for use with swimwear, but may work well for other types of garments.

Sleeve length

Controls how long the sleeves of the garment will be.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 125%

Controls how long the sleeves of your garment will be.

• 15-30% will make short sleeves.
• 75% will make three-quarter sleeves.
• 100% will make long sleeves, stopping at the wrist.
• 115% will make sleeves covering the knuckles, and is appropriate if using thumb holes.

Advanced

Leg taper position

Controls how the lower legs are laid out on the pattern.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how the lower legs are laid out on the pattern.

Whether the legs taper inwards or outwards or down the middle will slightly affect the fit of the garment, and will affect the shape around the crotch fork and the upper legs. It’s recommended to use a value for this option that produces the smoothest looking front and back pattern pieces.

tip

Setting this to 100% will generally produce pattern pieces that can be fit more efficiently onto the fabric.

Raglan scoop length

Controls how far out from the armhole the raglan seam starts to scoop.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how far out from the armhole the raglan seam starts to scoop.

Raglan scoop depth

Controls how much extra material to place under the armpits.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 6%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 20%

Controls how much extra material to place under the armpits.