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Hugo hoodie: Design Options

Conditional Options​

Draft for high bust​

Draft the pattern using the high bust measurement if it is available, instead of using the chest measurement. This can result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts. (Please note that no additional adjustments or shaping is performed. Further manual adjustments may be needed for those with a larger difference between high bust and chest measurements.)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

Draft the pattern for the high bust measurement (if available) rather than the (full) chest. This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

Armhole depth factor (legacy)​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole. This option only applies to the legacy (v2) way of calculating the armhole depth.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 55%
  • Minimum: 50%
  • Maximum: 70%

The armhole depth factor on Brian

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

Armhole depth​

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: -10%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

This option applies to the new v3 way of calculating the armhole depth. If you enable the legacy armhole depth option, this option will not apply, but instead a fixed factor will be applied.

Fit​

Biceps ease​

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 15%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 50%

The amount of ease at your upper arm.

Chest ease​

The amount of ease at your chest.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 8%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

This option controls the ease at your chest.

Collar ease​

The amount of ease around your neck

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Collar ease

Controls the amount of ease at your collar/neck and the size of the neck opening..

Hugo uses the neck circumference measurement rather than head circumference to produce the neck opening size when generating patterns. Use this option to adjust the neck opening size if needed.

Cuff ease​

The amount of ease at your wrist.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 20%
  • Minimum: 10%
  • Maximum: 50%

This option controls the ease at your wrist.

Hips ease​

The amount of ease at your hips.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 12%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

How much room do you want at the hips?

Ribbing stretch​

Use this to adapt the pattern to how stretchy the ribbing that you are using is.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

Ribbing stretch on Hugo

This option allows you to tweak the stretch of your ribbing.

It’s value is the percentage of stretch in the ribbing fabric, and that amount will be subtracted from 100% to determine the final width of fabric used in the pattern.

For example, if you choose 10%, then for every 10 cm of ribbing, we’ll only draft 9 cm. This way, 9 cm of ribbing will be stretched to 10 cm.

The option range is between 0% and 10%, with the default set to 5%.

note

If you’re not sure what to pick, best is to take the ribbing you are going to use see how much of it you need to stretch out to get to 10 cm with a good stretch.

Shoulder ease​

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -2%
  • Maximum: 6%

Shoulder ease

Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.

This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

Style​

Length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -4%
  • Maximum: 60%

The amount to lengthen the garment by. A negative value will shorten it.

Pocket width​

Determined the width of the pocket.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 50%
  • Minimum: 35%
  • Maximum: 65%

This option controls the width of the front pocket.

Ribbing height​

Controls the height of the ribbing

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 10%
  • Minimum: 4%
  • Maximum: 20%

The height of the ribbing at the hem and cuffs.

Shoulder seam shift: armhole side​

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -100%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the armhole side.

  • Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the armhole side
  • Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the armhole side

Shoulder seam shift: collar side​

Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side. Decreasing it shifts it backwards.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: -100%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls the shoulder seam location on the collar side.

  • Increase this option to shift the shoulder seam forward on the collar side
  • Decrease this option to shift the shoulder seam backward on the collar side

Sleeve length bonus​

The amount to lengthen the sleeve. A negative value will shorten it.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 10%

This option controls how long to lengthen the sleeves by.

Advanced​

Across back factor​

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 98%
  • Minimum: 93%
  • Maximum: 100%

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Back neck cutout​

How deep the neck is cut out at the back

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 5%
  • Minimum: 2%
  • Maximum: 8%

Controls how deep the neck opening is cut out in the back of the garment. In other words, increasing this will shift the neck opening to the back.

Front armhole extra cutout​

How much do you want the front armhole to be cut out deeper than the back.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0.2%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 0.5%

Controls how much the front of the armhole is cut deeper into the garment than the back.

Front armhole extra cutout

Since the human shoulder is more rounded at the front of the body, the sleeve(cap) is more rounded there too, and the armhole is typically cut deeper into the front of the garment than the back. This option controls how much deeper.

Legacy armhole depth​

Enable this option to use the legacy way to calculate the armhole depth (using biceps circumference) rather than the v3 way (using the waist to armpit measurement)

  • Type: Boolean
  • Default: false

This option allows you to use the legacy way of calculating the armhole depth in Brian, which Hugo extends.

The legacy (v2) way used the biceps circumference to estimate the armhole depth.

The v3 way instead uses the waist to armpit measurement to locate the bottom of the armhole.

If you enable this option, the Brian block will revert to the v2 way of calculating the armhole depth, and Hugo will follow.

Shoulder slope reduction​

The amount by which the shoulder slope is reduced to allow for shoulder padding.

  • Type: Percentage
  • Default: 0%
  • Minimum: 0%
  • Maximum: 80%

Shoulder slope reduction

Reduces the shoulder slope to create extra room for shoulder padding.