Bibi body block: Design Options

Conditional Options

Bust ease

Ease at the bust. Only applies when bust adjustment is enabled.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

Controls the amount of ease at the bust. This option fine-tunes the strength of the full bust adjustment (FBA).

Waist ease

Ease at the waist (only applies when the waist is fitted).

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 20%

If (and only if) you request to fit the waist, this option allows you to control the amount of ease at the waist.

If the waist is not fitted, this option is disabled.

Flare

How much fabric to use at the bottom hem of the design. Only applies when the design goes below the waist.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 150%

If the garment is longer than the waist, this option controls how much it flares out towards the hem.

In other words, this option controls how wide the bottom hem is around the hips and legs.

Cuff ribbing

Include ribbing on the sleeve

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Enable or disable ribbing on the cuffs. Ribbing on cuffs is typically used on sweatshirts and similar garments with long sleeves and thicker fabric.

Sleeve fullness

Controls how wide the sleeves are.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 200%

Controls the amount of ease at your sleeve opening.

Sleeve length

Controls the length of your sleeves

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: -20%
• Maximum: 110%

Controls the length of the sleeves.

Ribbing height

Controls the height of the ribbing

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 5%
• Maximum: 15%

Controls the height of the ribbing on the cuff and/or waistband.

Armhole depth

Controls the depth of the armhole. Higher values make a deeper armhole.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 50%

This option controls the depth of the armhole.

Waist adjustment

Controls the minimum width around the waist to prevent an excessive hourglass shape.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 95%
• Minimum: 50%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls the minimum width around the waist to prevent an excessive hourglass shape and to make sure you can still put on the garment.

Armhole curve back

How round the armhole curve is at the back. Higher options leave the shoulder blades free.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 30%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 120%

Controls how much the armhole at the back curves towards the center. Higher values expose more of the shoulder.

Armhole curve front

How round the armhole curve is at the front. Higher options expose more skin.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: -10%
• Maximum: 30%

Controls how much the armhole at the front curves towards the center. Higher values expose more of the shoulder and upper bust.

Armhole drop back

How much the back armhole curves towards the bottom.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: -50%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls how much the armhole at the back curves towards the lower spine. Higher values expose more shoulder area and create something like a racer back top.

Strap width

How wide the shoulder straps are. Only applies when sleeves are disabled.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 40%
• Minimum: 15%
• Maximum: 100%

If sleeves are disables, use this to control the width of the shoulder straps

Fit

Chest ease

The amount of ease at your chest.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: -5%
• Maximum: 25%

Controls the amount of ease at your chest

Fit the waist

Whether or not to fit the waist.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Enable this option to fit the waist, rather than drafting a straight rectangular shape.

Fitting the waist will yield best results for those with a smaller waist who are looking for a more hourglass-shaped fitted top.

Not fitting the waist will instead create something that looks more like a loose men’s t-shirt.

Hips ease

Ease at the hips.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: -5%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls the amount of ease at the hips.

Seat ease

Ease at the seat.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2%
• Minimum: -5%
• Maximum: 50%

Controls the amount of ease at your seat.

Biceps ease

The amount of ease at your upper arm. Note that while we try to respect this, fitting the sleeve to the armhole takes precedence over respecting the exact amount of ease.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 50%

The amount of ease at your upper arm.

Allow bust dart

Allow creating a bust dart if this is necessary

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

If the HPS to waist front measurement is larger than the HPS to waist back or when a full bust adjustment (FBA) affects the side seam, the front part often has a longer side seam than the back part.

This option determines if a bust dart should be created to match lengths. Otherwise, fabric gathering might be used.

This option has no effect if the side seam length difference isn’t large enough to warrant a dart.

Bust adjustment

If the pattern should be drafted with a basic full bust adjustment (FBA). This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

If the pattern should be drafted with a basic full bust adjustment (FBA). This will result in a more fitted garment for people with breasts.

If you don’t enable this option, Bibi will essentially be drafted for a body without breasts that has the same chest circumference as your body with breasts. For people with breasts, this will cause a bunch of extra fabric at the chest and armholes that will make the top look like a poor fit.

There is usually no need to disable this option. It will have little effect on people with smaller busts or no breasts.

note

When the optional bust related measurements are not available, no FBA will be performed and this option has no effect.

Ribbing stretch

Use this to adapt the pattern to how stretchy the ribbing that you are using is.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 30%

Controls how much the ribbing on the cuff and/or waistband is stretched relative to the fabric.

Shoulder ease

The amount of ease at your shoulder. This increases the shoulder to shoulder distance to accommodate additional layers or thickness.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -2%
• Maximum: 6%

Controls the amount of ease on the shoulder to shoulder measurement.

This option allows you to create some extra ease at the shoulders which shifts the shoulder seam more outwards and off the shoulder. Thereby creating extra room for extra layers of clothing underneath, or more shaped/padded shoulders.

Style

Back neckline curvature

Controls the curvature of the back neckline.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 70%

Controls the curvature of the neck opening at the back.

Back neckline depth

Controls how deep the neck opening plunges down on the back.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 6%
• Minimum: 2%
• Maximum: 110%

Controls the depth of the neck opening at the back. A value of 100% puts the opening on the bust line.

Knit binding height

Controls the height of the knit binding for neck and armhole.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2.5%
• Minimum: 1.25%
• Maximum: 5%

Controls the height of the knit binding on the neck and armhole.

Front neckline curvature

Controls the curvature of the front neckline.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 70%

Controls the curvature of the neck opening on the front.

Front neckline depth

Controls how deep the neck opening plunges down at the front.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 25%
• Minimum: 20%
• Maximum: 110%

Controls the depth of the neck opening at the front. A value of 100% puts the opening on the bust line.

Neckline width

Controls the width of the neck opening.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: -5%
• Maximum: 90%

Controls the width of the neck opening.

Waistband ribbing

Include ribbing on the waistband

• Type: Boolean
• Default: false

Enable or disable the separate waistband part. A waistband made from ribbing fabric provides a tighter fit and cleaner finish and is typically used on sweatshirts, crop tops, and bralettes.

Length

Length

Which measurement line to use for the bottom hem. You can do fine adjustments using the bonus length option.

• Type: List
• Default: seat
• options:
  • underbust
  • waist
  • hips
  • seat
  • knee
  • floor

Which measurement to use for the bottom hem. If the length bonus is zero, the bottom of the garment will be at exactly the selected measurement.

Note that the options underbust, knee and floor require the corresponding optional vertical measurements. If they are missing, a very rough estimate is used instead.

Use a negative length bonus when selecting floor to prevent the garment from actually dragging on the floor.

Length bonus

The amount to lengthen the garment. A negative value will shorten it.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: -30%
• Maximum: 30%

Fine-tune the length of the garment. A negative value decreases the length, a positive value increases it.

Sleeves

Sleeves

Draft the pattern with sleeves

• Type: Boolean
• Default: true

Weather to create a pattern with sleeves or not. If sleeves are enables, sleeve lengths above 5% will create normal set-in sleeves. Lengths below 5% will create cap/dolman sleeves.

Advanced

Across back factor

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 98%
• Minimum: 93%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls your across back width as a factor of your shoulder to shoulder measurement

Curvature adjustment

Controls how straight the side seam is above the hem.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 0.1%
• Maximum: 100%

Adjust by how much the side seam goes straight up above the hem, by default.

This option will often not have much effect, if any. Fitting the hips and seat measurements (including ease) has priority over this option and adjusting these ease settings instead is often a better idea.

Length adjustment

Controls how much the front part is made longer to compensate for the curve around the bust. Has little effect on smaller busts.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 25%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls how much the front part is made longer to compensate for the curve around the bust. Has little effect on smaller busts.

This setting controls the influence of the hps-to-waist-front measurement. At 0% only the hps-to-waist-back measurements are used to create the waist line. At higher settings, the front part is enlarged to compensate for a larger bust.

This setting has no effect if the hps-to-waist-front measurement is smaller than hps-to-waist-back or equal.

Seat back adjustment

Controls the influence of the seat back measurement.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 20%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 100%

Controls the influence of the seat back measurement on the garment width.

• At 0%, the front and back parts will have the same widths around the seat, equal to half the seat measurement (plus ease).
• At 100%, the back part will have a width equal to the seat back measurement (plus ease) and the front part will cover the remaining seat measurement (plus ease).

Sleevecap

Sleevecap back X

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 60%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap back Y

Controls the placement of the sleevecap back pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the back of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap ease

The amount by which the sleevecap seam is longer than the armhole seam.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 0%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 10%

Determines the amount of sleevecap ease.

note

The amount of sleevecap ease determines how the sleeves rolls from the shoulder. More ease makes the sleeve curl into the seam as you see on suit jackets. Less ease makes the sleeve lie flat.

For light fabric or knits, you want little to no sleevecap ease. For heavier woven fabrics, you need more sleevecap ease.

Sleevecap front X

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the X-axis (horizontal)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 55%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap front Y

Controls the placement of the sleevecap front pitchpoint on the Y-axis (vertical)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 33%
• Minimum: 30%
• Maximum: 65%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap inflection point at the front of the sleeve.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the first quadrant (front armhole)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 1.7%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q1 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap first quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the first quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the second quadrant (front shoulder)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 3.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 15%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q2 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap second quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the second quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the third quadrant (back shoulder)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 2.5%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 10%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q3 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap third quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 8%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the third quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 offset

Controls the curvature of the sleevecap in the fourth quadrant (back armhole)

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 1%
• Minimum: 0%
• Maximum: 7%

This option controls the offset in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 upward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the shoulder

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 7%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the upward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap Q4 downward spread

Controls the spread of the sleevecap fourth quadrant curvature towards the armhole

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 6.3%
• Minimum: 4%
• Maximum: 20%

This option controls the downward spread in the fourth quadrant of the sleevecap.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top X

Controls the horizontal location of the sleevecap top.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 50%
• Minimum: 25%
• Maximum: 75%

This option controls the horizontal placement of the sleevecap top.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.

Sleevecap top Y

Controls the height of the sleevecap. A higher value results in a higher and more narrow sleevecap.

• Type: Percentage
• Default: 45%
• Minimum: 35%
• Maximum: 125%

This option controls the vertical placement of the sleevecap top.

tip

See understanding the sleevecap for an in-depth look into how the sleevecap is constructed and the influence of the different options on its shape.